Elizabeth Chong, one of Australia’s great authorites on Chinese cuisine, writes about her love affair with Hong Kong.

Hong Kong has always been one of my favourite places. It has a vitality that is quite unique. The energy flows like a river, and once you get caught in the flow, it has a way of sweeping you along with the current.

This place has a special magic – it is the magic of East meeting West, Chinese heritage blending with British colonial influences, high-tech modernity side by side with Cantonese gusto. It has style, attitude and flair. Change is forever in the air, yet there is something unchanging that brings me back to my roots, and gives me a solid ground for my identity.

I am a frequent visitor, and an avid fan of the city’s cuisine, and my enthusiasm for indulging in one of my favourite pursuits has not dimmed over the years. On every visit, I can do a whirlwind culinary tour of China, from Shanghai dumplings and noodles, to Sichuan’s gorgeous smoked duck and steamed buns, from Ma Po beancurd to Tung Po Port, from Chui Chow goose in vinegar dip to classical Cantonese roast goose, stopping for a while to sample the hearty food of the Hakka people.

And if China is not enough, if you still hunger for the flavours of the world, then stop-over in Macau for a side order of Portuguese or sensational Macanese cooking. Back to Hong Kong, and you can dine exquisitely at the Peninsula or the Regal Meridien in authentic French, Italian, Vietnamese, Thai, Nepalese or Cajun style.

There are other treats, such as the home-spun food of Hong Kong’s home kitchens, or Dai Pai dongs (food stalls) where you might try a steaming bowl of chicken congee or won ton noodle soup.

Dine like an emperor or eat like a pauper, Hong Kong has it all, and the food is better than anywhere else I know.

I have travelled to many parts of the world, enjoying the history, culture and food of every country from France to Germany, Italy to Morocco, China to Japan, Vietnam to Thailand and inevitably, being a food lover, my great delight is in sourcing and sampling the foods of each region.

In France, I loved the food of the Perigord region and of Provence, remembering the delectable fois gras and the lovely cassoulets. In Italy, magnificent meals prepared with love will always have a special place in my heart, and Shanghai delivered one of the best Chinese meals I have ever had. Each place offers memories that linger, but no matter which country I happen to be visiting, I am hard pressed to remember a great meal of a different national origin.

Hong Kong is the exception. In years gone by, Hong Kong food could be defined as Cantonese, but today, it is superbly international. With the declaration of the People’s Republic of China, thousands of immigrants poured into Hong Kong from all over the mainland. From Shanghai, Sichuan, Hunan and Beijing they came, looking for safety, succour and a new life. Their chefs came with them, and soon the tables of Hong Kong were graced by new dishes, there was a different focus, and the people loved the diversity.

Hong Kong cannot be defined by its cuisine, because it has none of its own, and yet it has it all. Today, this great global city, the City of Life, is undoubtedly one of the paramount gastronomic centres of the world.

Maybe Hong Kong is a state of mind. It is whatever you want it to be, and that is why I always return – to a new adventure every time.

Sichuan Chicken and Peanuts

Ingredients:

  • 3 chicken breasts, boned and skinned
  • 1 clove garlic, sliced
  • 3 slices ginger, fresh
  • 1 capsicum, red
  • 1 onion
  • Peanut oil for stir-frying

Marinade for chicken:

  • A little egg white
  • 2 tspns cornflour

Sauce:

  • 1 tbsp Shaohsing rice wine
  • 11/2 tbsp light soy sauce
  • 1 tspn salt
  • 1 tspn sugar
  • 1 tspn chilli bean paste*
  • 1 tspn cornflour
  • 1/2 tspn brown bean paste*
  • 1/2 cup roasted, unsalted peanuts

* Note: Available in Asian groceries

Preparation:

  • · Cut the chicken into 2cm dice, then marinate in a medium-sized bowl.
  • · Dice the capsicum and onion, to match the chicken.
  • · Make up the sauce, combining all ingredients together in a mixing bowl.

Method:

Pre-heat the wok, add two tablespoons of oil and, just as it begins to smoke, add the garlic and ginger, cooking for several seconds over moderate heat before adding the capsicum and onion. Toss for another few seconds and remove to a plate. Carefully wipe out the wok with paper towels. Put two tablespoons of oil into the wok and, just as it begins to smoke, add the chicken, and stir-fry over moderate heat until the colour changes. Stir in the sauce, combine well, return the cooked capsicum and onion, then stir in the peanuts and transfer to a serving dish. Serve immediately.








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