RETIREMENT & LIFESTYLE PLANNING      Baby boomers need to plan their transition into retirement for  Financial Security     Active Health Management  Emotional Wellbeing  Maximum Self Esteem ISSUE - 16

England’s second largest city is well worth another look and full of surprises, says Mary Ryllis Clark.

The centre of Birmingham is blossoming. It still has its busy outer suburbs (after all, it is the second largest city in England), Spaghetti Junction and heavy industry, but the centre is vibrant. Some stunning new architecture, cool European cafe culture and the restoration of its historic buildings are all contributing to the city’s Renaissance.

Why go? Birmingham was the world’s first great industrial city – the powerhouse of the British Empire. It is now bidding to become European Capital of Culture in 2008. It is developing a huge reputation for art, museums, music, drama, shopping, eating and drinking. It also has a bewildering range of attractions, such as the Science Show at Millennium Point, the intriguing Tolkien Trail, and Cadbury World at Bournville. Old eyesores like the Bullring are being replaced with dynamic new designer buildings such as the 300 million pound Arena Centre. The question is now: why fly to Heathrow when Birmingham has an international airport that is so much easier to negotiate?

What to do: Birmingham is said to have more canals than Venice. Most of them were built in the 18th and 19th centuries to support local industry. A delightful way to begin a visit is to take a boat trip in the city and see some of the exciting new waterside residential development, old wharves, quiet backwaters and designer shopping precincts. The centre of Birmingham is quite compact and accessible on foot. Walk along tow paths, streets of Georgian terraces, or high Victorian business premises. The 18th century Cathedral of St Philip with its glorious Burne Jones windows is only 10 minutes from the Art Gallery, which houses The Last of England by Ford Maddox Brown – guaranteed to bring a tear to the eye of Australians of British descent. Music lovers should check out the Concert Hall – or better still book tickets for a performance with Finnish conductor Sakari Oramo.

Don’t miss: the Jewellery Quarter. Metal workers have been making beautiful things here since medieval times but it was the 19th century gold rushes in California and Australia that gave such a boost to the Birmingham jewellery trade. Start with a visit to the Jewellery Quarter Discovery Centre built round the restored workshops of Smith & Pepper, a 19th century jewellery firm. The Centre has background information on the area, an excellent gift shop, and a fascinating museum. Long-time jewellers such as Dennis Owens give guided tours, which include watching a jeweller at work and hearing tales of past working conditions. Afterwards, wander through the narrow Georgian streets where shop after shop sells jewels, and visit the late 18th century Church of St Pauls, once the focus of religious life for local artisans. There are a couple of pavement trails to follow and yet another amazing museum, The Pen Room, which takes you back to the days when Birmingham was the centre of the world pen trade.

Food and drink: The place to go for bars, restaurants and cafes is Brindley Place, where former US President Bill Clinton recently dropped in for a beer. The great London-based chef Raymond Blanc (from Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons) has opened Le Petit Blanc here and is loving it. Water’s Edge, Gas Street Basin and The Mailbox (formerly the Royal Mail sorting office and the largest building in Birmingham), are all packed with places to enjoy coffee and cake, wine and dine or just hang out. For something enticingly different, the Balti Triangle south of the city comprises dozens of small North Kashmiri restaurants and market. BYO drink.

Where to stay: The Hotel du Vin, close to St Philip’s Cathedral, would be hard to beat. Opened only a year ago in the beautifully converted 1823 Birmingham Eye Hospital, it combines the graciousness of a historic building with the comforts of contemporary living. It i s part of a small chain of wine-focussed hotels, so the food is superb and wine list impressive. It has an impressive spa and treatment complex, ideal for a rehydrating facial or relaxing massage after a long haul flight. ( www.hotelduvin.com )

Out and about: Birmingham is within day-tripping distance of Shakespeare country, the Cotswolds, the Welsh borders, Shropshire and the Potteries, as well as Warwick, London, Worcester, Oxford, Stafford and Nottingham. A surfeit of stately homes (among them Warwick Castle, Aston Hall, Hegley Hall and Weston Park), beautiful landscapes and historic towns and villages lure the traveller in every direction. You can rent a car at the airport or try easycar.com, a cheaper option located in the city.

Write to the Birmingham Convention & Visitor Bureau
at 130 Colmore Row, Victoria Square, Birmingham B3 3AP
or go to www.birmingham.org.uk .
Emirates Airlines flies direct to Birmingham from Australia
(see www.emirates.com).

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