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Once known to Australians just as an airport stopover, Dubai offers the ultimate break on the way back from Europe. Kaye Fallick discovers the highlights.
Dubai is buzzing. The drive from the airport to the commercial centre takes you across Dubai Creek a 12-kilometre inlet that divides Dubai city in two. From the bridge you see abras (water taxis) and ancient, crowded cargo dhows in front of vast shimmering steel and glass towers of diverse height and shape symbols of the new Dubai.
In the crowded gold souk, families stroll past, wearing traditional robes men in pristine white dish-dashas and women, totally covered in black abbeyas with cloths called shaylas draped over their faces. Then you notice the mobile phone held to the mans ear, a Louis Vuitton bag on the womans arm, children skipping behind in jeans and Mickey Mouse T-shirts.
In Dubai city, a collision of the old and the new, traditional and high-tech, can be seen in every direction.
A bewildering choice of luxury hotels, featuring avant-garde architecture and decor, is available for business and leisure visitors alike. But for five to seven day stopovers, the greatest value is in the packages, which include airfares as well as two or more hotel options located in the city, beach and/or mountains
The best introduction to Dubai is the city tour. Lasting approximately three hours, this provides an excellent overview, including a visit to the souks, Dubai Museum, the vegetable and fish markets, as well as a drive-past many local landmarks including the palace of the ruling Sheikh.
A pungent fragrance heralds the spice souks. Take time to wander among the sacks of pumice, curry, cardamom, cinnamon, and compare the many grades of Iranian saffron. Purchase the ultimate souvenir a sheesa or Hubble Bubble with which to smoke fruit tobacco. Then make your way to the gold souks to be dazzled by the sheer intensity of thousands upon thousands of bangles, necklaces, rings and watches. A stop at one of the many mosques is a welcome reminder of the spiritual history of the region.
Dubai museum is located in the home of the current rulers grandfather, Sheik Saeed al Maktoum. Displays of how life was lived when Dubai was a fishing village of just a few thousand people are a thorough introduction to traditional ways.
Until 1971, all the emirates were under British rule. Heavily reliant on trade and pearling, Dubais economy was greatly weakened by the introduction of cultivated Japanese pearls in the 1930s.
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In 1967 the turnaround of Dubais economic fortunes commenced with the discovery of oil in the desert. Soon after, the British protectorate was redrawn into seven emirates. Dubais ruler, Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al Maktoum, was a visionary he unsilted the Creek to increase trade opportunities, and positioned Dubai as the major trading centre of the Gulf.
His son, Sheikh Maktoum, has inherited his fathers vision and energy, and has consolidated Dubais claim as the hub of the Middle East, with an energetic vision for the economy, including remarkable tourism and residential projects such as the Palms and The World.
But Dubai is about more than cutting edge skyscrapers. It is a true melting pot of nationalities, boasting large expatriate communities and a strong line in tolerance. Perhaps because of this, it suffers a very low crime rate and has proven to be a safe destination for all age groups.
Dubai is more than a stopover; consider it as a destination in its own right, or an extended stay on the way back from the cities of Europe.
Dubai: a collision of culture
What is it?
A capital city and an emirate, one of the seven that form the United Arab Emirates.Where is it?
Along the coast on the south-eastern tip of the Arabian GulfSize?
The city, rapidly expanding, occupies 35 square kilometres of the 3885 square kilometre emirate.Languages spoken?
Arabic and EnglishPopulation?
1 million: 20 per cent local, the balance expatriatesReligion?
80 per cent Sunni Muslim
20 per cent Shiite Muslim
Just as the Opera House has become the icon of Australia, so the Sail Hotel has become the symbol of modern Dubai. A seven star hotel, it sits on a man-made island at Jumeirah Beach. Taller than the Empire State Building, it boasts 28 floors of luxury suite-only accommodation and six restaurants, including Al Mahara, an under-water aquarium restaurant reached by a luxury submarine. Guests may arrive by their private helicopters on the rooftop helipad, or be ferried by road in one of the fleet of 10 Rolls Royces waiting out the front. Unlimited access to nearby water fun park, Wild Wadi, is a bonus for the young at heart.
Delights of Dubai
Do not leave Dubai without
- Catching an Abra (water taxi) across the Creek
- Visiting Dubai Museum
- Spoiling yourself at the Gold Souk
- Inhaling the atmosphere of the Spice Souk
- Visiting at least one mega shopping centre
- Trying a camel ride
- Desert adventure
- Enjoying the dramatic architecture, by day and night
- Golfing in lush green surrounds in the city, or on a desert course
- Buying fresh dates at the vegetable market
WHEN TO GO?
Avoid July and August when the temperature can climb to mid to high 40s. September through to March offers sunny weather (mid-30s) without the searing heat. During Ramadan in September, visitors are requested to not eat or drink in public during the day but then reap the benefit of festive evenings when the locals stop fasting and fun begins.
GETTING THERE:
Emirates currently operate daily services to Dubai from Melbourne, Perth, Sydney and Brisbane starting in October 2003. Sydney and Perth flights are direct from December 2003.
Discount senior fares are offered, as well as a complimentary chauffeur service for first and business class travellers.HOW LONG TO STAY?
Three days might be enough to cover the city, and Jumeirah Beach, but a longer 5-7 day stay allows for a desert safari based at the mountain retreat in Hatta, some golf or horseracing and visiting some other emirates.
WHERE TO STAY?
Consider a combination of locations including city, beach and desert
City: Try the newly opened Shangri La on Sheikh Zayed Road www.shangri-la.com
Beach: For the ultimate in sophistication, Burj Al Arab, Web: www.jumeirahinternational.com
or Jumeirah Beach resort, Web: www.jumeirahinternational.comDesert/Mountains: Plan on three days of total relaxation at Hatta Fort Hotel Web: www.jebelali-international.com
Packages: Emirates Holidays Web: www.emirates.com
Best Guide Book
Lonely Planet Dubai, or Oman & the United Arab Emirates Web: www.lonelyplanet.com
Kaye Fallick flew as a guest of Emirates Airlines and stayed in Dubai courtesy of the Dubai Tourism Commerce and Marketing and the Shangri La Hotel.
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