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Stranger danger
You never know who you'll meet on a train, says Kaye Fallick , which is but one of the attractions of this highly civilized way to travel.
The dilemma
There are as many Europes as there are Africas and Americas. Sophisticated Europe, ancient Europe, high-tech Europe, cross-cultural Europe it's impossible for a travellerto experience them all, even during a sojourn that stretches for a year or more. This difficulty is compounded for Australian travellers whose domicile is so far away; they are usually on the strictest of timetables and the slimmest of budgets.
Dilemma solved!
There is, however, one solution capable of delivering the best of the many Europes, easily and enjoyably, and cost and time effectively. This solution is also one of the most romantic ways to travel by rail. In his novel The Memory of Running , author Ron McLarty describes American railway stations as museums with newspapers. The same might be said about European train stations but they have coffee GREAT coffee and so much more!
Train travellers in Europe are virtually guaranteed a heavy dose of history before they even depart. But don't plan to arrive at your station, be it London's Waterloo, Rome's Termini , or the Gare du Nord in Paris, with too little time before departure. While waiting time in airport departure lounges is a punishment to be avoided at all costs, extra time in European train stations is an experience to be savoured. Promise yourself that you'll enjoy the full European rail adventure and arrive an hour or two early, allowing sufficient time to browse the bookshops, enjoy a light repast, buy a foreign language newspaper and inhale the heady cosmopolitan atmosphere. And if you're fortunate enough to be travelling first class, perhaps you'll even meet some of your fellow travellers whilst enjoying the hospitality in the lounge.
There is another great advantage of these fabulous train museums' with the rare exceptions of newer stations such as Avignon they are situated slap bang in the centre of town. So when you arrive at your destination, as long as you've remembered to pack sparingly in a suitcase with wheels, you can languidly arise from your seat, adjust your attire, reclaim your bag, and saunter slowly through the terminus, exiting past upmarket boutiques, intriguing restaurants and tiny cafés en route to your preferred accommodation.
Traditionally, central European train stations were located adjacent to red light districts (or vice versa), so one needed to be careful when enthusiastically booking a remarkably inexpensive hotel, or risk hearing the squeals and grunts of horizontal dancing from the room next door: far too distracting for a good night's sleep for a tired traveller. Nowadays you are far more likely to find a discreet and elegant four-star boutique hotel, often featuring a minimal bar and well-appointed lobby. Advances in locomotive technology also mean that the speed and comfort of modern European trains allow the traveller to experience many different cities and cultures in a very, very short period of time indeed.
Hello, stranger
And one last advantage of training'? If travel is indeed about the journey and not the destination, and the journey is always about the people you meet, then where better to meet a local than in the relaxed environment of your carriage, on the next stool in the bar, or in the adjacent seat in the restaurant car?
Consider the following timetable for time-pressed Aussie adventurers:
Day 1 Paris Lausanne, Switzerland (TGV, travel time three hours)
Day 2 Lausanne Panoramic train in Swiss Alps, then via Montreux to Bern, World Heritage City, returning to Lausanne
Day 3 Lausanne Geneva Montpellier, South of France (TGV)
Day 4 Montpellier Barcelona, Spain (Talgo)
Day 5 Barcelona Madrid (Alvia)
Day 6 Madrid Toledo Madrid (AVE)
Evening Day 6 Madrid Paris (Elipsos overnight train with dinner and breakfast)This whirlwind trip has seen you depart France mid-afternoon; dine in Lausanne; enjoy cheese, chocolate and Swiss efficiency; bask in the sun of Southern France and the ancient culture of the trading city of Montpellier; and experience the night life and tapas of Barcelona and Madrid, the architecture of Gaudi and the paintings of El Greco, before heading north into the night, to awaken in Paris, City of Light, ready for your next adventure.
More
Kaye Fallick travelled to Europe as a guest of Railplus and Emirates Airlines.
Web www.railplus.com.au or
Ph 1300 555 083Web www.emirates.com.au or
Ph 1300 303 777
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