RETIREMENT & LIFESTYLE PLANNING
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ISSUE - 29 - Summer 2007/2008

Yukon calling

When Margaret Goodwin dreamt of escaping the grind of city life, she had no iea it would be to a remote community in Canada's far north.

I'd fallen in love with Canada during a year in Toronto and returned to Australia filled with the desire to one day make it my home. That dream eventually came true, and 10 years to the day after I'd first set foot here, I finally walked off the plane into my new country.

Initially headed for Vancouver, I was, at the eleventh hour, offered three months' work in the Yukon. Never one to pass up an adventure, I decided this one was too good to miss. Maybe it was the allure of escaping the rat race, or just one too many episodes of Northern Exposure , but two days after landing in Canada I found myself in Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon and just 900km shy of the Arctic Circle.

Flying in, you get an idea of just how remote it is – 30,000 people living in an area roughly the size of California – and you'll find most of those in Whitehorse. I could walk to the North Pole from here and probably not see another human being. Moving from downtown Sydney to this small community at the edge of known civilisation in northern Canada has not been without its challenges. Aside from the usual hurdles of being a new immigrant – and there are a surprising number of them, even when you speak the language – life this far north is a long way from ordinary.

Of course, the most obvious difference is the weather. Canadians in general have turned weather conversation into an art form: up here, it's an obsession. And with good reason. When it's 40 below plus wind chill, you don't want to mess around. As the mercury drops, the layers of clothing go on. Cars are plugged in to engine heaters so they will start in the cold. And only the foolhardy would venture onto winter roads without packing survival gear. But despite the ever-present risk of frostbite and limited daylight hours, life slows down very little over winter. Long nights just mean more time for watching the northern lights.

And while the winter here may be cold, the people most definitely are not. The Yukon is a tight-knit community and Northerners are famed for their hospitality – they welcome newcomers like family. There aren't too many places left in the world where a total stranger will introduce themselves with a handshake just because you happen to be standing nearby. Up here, people take the time to get to know you.

A magnet for those with an independent spirit, the Yukon is home to an eclectic community of musicians, miners, artists, government workers, eccentrics and refugees from urban jungles around the world. Most come looking for a lifestyle change. They're down to earth, practical, resourceful people who maintain a sense of the pioneer spirit. This is, after all, one of the last remaining frontiers in the world.

And, despite the fact that Canadians further south chuckle when you tell them where you live, Yukoners are onto something. I now commute three blocks to work. Hardly anyone I know owns a mobile phone. Some who live out of town don't even have indoor plumbing. And work is how you earn a living, not a lifestyle choice. They've discovered a highly sought-after secret – the almost mythical work-life balance.

Perhaps because of this, life is very relaxed. For a girl from the city this has taken a lot of getting used to because things don't happen on city time. They happen on Yukon time, meaning it will get done when it gets done. Add to that the fact that whilst we enjoy all the conveniences of southern cities, virtually everything has to be shipped in. I quickly discovered that patience is a virtue you need in good supply to live here. Advanced planning skills, a sense of humour and adaptability come in handy as well!

But the best part of living here is the environment. A wilderness playground with endless boreal forest, lakes, rivers and mountains is 10 minutes from downtown. No more long drive just to get out of the city. The outdoors is a way of life here and connection with nature an integral part of the Yukon lifestyle.

Somehow three months has turned into nearly two years. But that's a common story around these parts. It's a place that gets its hooks into people and they just never seem to leave. For me, it's the warmth of the people, a simpler life and the magnificent landscape that have kept me here. Being here has taught me to slow down and enjoy the beauty of each day.

I used to have a shelf crammed with books promising me the secret of a happy life. But in coming here, to this unlikely place, I've finally found the inner peace and happiness that was so elusive in the rush of city life.

A long way for food
Of all the cuisines we have in Whitehorse, the one notable exception is Thai. They do, however, have a great Thai restaurant in Skagway, Alaska – about two hours away by road, across the continental divide and US border. So, with not much to do one day and a hankering for Thai food, we drove to Alaska. As we crossed the border on our return, the Canadian customs officer asked if we were bringing anything back. “Just some take-out.” I'm sure he thought we were insane. Perhaps we were. But sometimes you just need Thai food – even if you have to take your passport to get it.

Woof woof
I recently spent the night at a dog sled operation with friends. Our cabins, though comfortable, did not have private facilities (this is the wilderness after all) but an outhouse located some distance away. So in the middle of the night, in the pitch black, I found myself stumbling around the bush (things always look so different in the dark). Sneaking back into the cabin, I was congratulating myself on being so quiet as to not wake my cabin mate, when the most eerie sound filled the night air. A howling dog. It was quickly taken up by another. And another. Until 65 dogs were howling for all they were worth. Lesson – do not think you can sneak around anywhere near a sled dog kennel.


More

Yukon Tourism can provide you with information on planning a holiday in the Yukon.
Web www.travelyukon.com
If you're interested in migrating to Canada, Citizenship and Immigration Canada can provide you with more information. For skilled workers, selection is made on a points system based on your age, professional experience, education and language skills.
Web www.cic.gc.ca
You can also contact the Canadian Consulate General in Sydney.
Ph (02) 9364 3050 (9 a.m. to 12 noon, Monday to Friday)
Web www.international.gc.ca/australia
Email sydney.immigration@international.gc.ca

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