Life, as we know, can take unexpected turns, presenting us with challenges we never imagined. It’s often said that it’s like a box of chocolates—you never quite know what you’ll get.
How we respond to these unforeseen circumstances and the resilience we discover within ourselves truly define our journey. Some find solace in familiar comforts, while others seek new horizons, discovering unexpected passions that reshape their lives.
But for some, the path to healing lies in the ocean’s embrace. This is especially true in this story of surfing athletes who have found in the waves a therapy unlike any other, turning adversity into a powerful connection with the sea.
Josh Bogle’s life took an unexpected and radical turn about a decade ago after a seemingly minor incident led to catastrophic health issues.
‘Over a year, I ended up having two open-heart surgeries, 10 days in a coma and losing my limbs,’ he said.
‘It all stemmed from a strep infection in my jaw, and then I stepped on a fish hook and got MRSA (methicillin-resistant staphylococcus aureus) and ended up in sepsis and in the hospital in a coma.’
But from this life-altering experience, Bogle discovered a new passion that would redefine his existence: surfing.
Now, at 47, Bogle spends most of his time on the Hawaiian island of Maui.
‘I have this love for the ocean because it doesn’t discriminate against what your disability is. It’s the same wave for everyone, he said.
Surfing has become more than a sport for Bogle; it’s a form of ‘soul therapy’, a daily routine that connects him to ‘something bigger’ than himself.
He found that ‘something bigger’ in the sense of community in the adaptive surfing pro world tour and its competitors in Byron Bay, who attest to the ocean’s healing power.
Sense of community
Athletes like 18-year-old Kai Colless, who faced a life-changing diagnosis of arteriovenous malformation on his spine during a family trip, have found solace and strength in the ocean’s embrace.
Despite now using a wheelchair, Colless has not let his condition keep him from the water.
‘The ocean therapy is the best therapy you can get, I reckon…it just goes back to our nature and makes you feel amazing,’ he said.
‘It’s not even about the competing, it’s about the family that these guys have created here. You never really understand it until you get into it, but the community that these guys is incredible.”
Colless’s sentiments are echoed by his mother, Brooke, who has witnessed the transformative power of adaptive surfing in her son’s life.
‘The water has been such a healing place for him, and it is for so many of the surfing athletes. We just try to get anyone that we know that has had an accident or has some kind of disability in the water in a way that they can,’ she said.
Not just for the physically disabled
The sense of community and the therapeutic benefits of the ocean are not limited to those with physical disabilities. Due to her limited vision, Aleli Medina, a 15-year-old Puerto Rican surfer, competes with her father’s guidance. Despite the challenges and the inevitable wipeouts, she finds joy and growth in the journey.
‘I can see the ocean, but I see everything really blurry, and it’s really hard for me to actually notice when a wave is coming and be able to paddle into it on time,’ she said.
‘I’ve got some nasty waves and some horrible close-outs and wipe-outs, but it’s part of the journey.’
Would you try ‘ocean therapy’? How has the ocean, or another aspect of nature, contributed to your healing journey? We’d love to know about your experiences in the comments below!
Also read: Surfing world mourns a fallen icon
