Why Bali is still best on a budget

Max and Co. visit one of the most popular destinations for Australian tourists: Bali.

max williams bali

Bali is among the most popular destinations for Australia tourists. And YourLifeChoices’ trusted journeyman Max Williams is one of very few people who can still offer a new take on this Indonesian icon. Here’s why Max thinks Bali is still best on a budget.

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Jenny and I, along with seven of our friends, arrive in Bali two weeks after the media circus and the convicted drug smuggler* left town. The locals are well and truly over it – good riddance they say. You will be happy to know that there are no visible monuments, T-shirts or plaques to remind us of this 13-year saga. It does seem, however, that Indonesia has strengthened its resolve regarding the laws and punishment for drug-related offences. There has been so much focus and hype given to this situation that it has taken the shine off Bali as a great tourist destination – or has it?

bali

So, let’s talk about now and then. I have visited Bali as a tourist many times since the early 80s and there have been some noticeable changes over that time. It still appears to be a very popular destination, despite the negativity of the past. In my experience, the Balinese people have the most even temperaments of all whom I’ve met worldwide. There is absolutely no road rage and they always smile, no matter what the situation. We should take a leaf out of their book! However, the Javanese who come to Bali to make their mark selling their wares in the shops and markets can have a different mindset.

beach bum at bali

Thousands of Aussies descend on the island weekly, particularly during the winter months. There are not so many Europeans in Kuta or Legian and only a handful of Brits. Most of the tourists are middle-age to older Aussies getting some sun while their friends are back in Australia freezing their nuts off!

Yep, the Aussies are here in all their glory – not always a pretty sight though, particularly at the sports bars on footy or rugby days. I must admit, I’m not a lover of tattoos and am amazed at the number of men and women with them – usually wearing shorts, thongs and a singlet that hangs over a rather large midsection, suggesting some good paddocks back home. This could be seen to typify a large proportion of Aussie tourists in this area of Bali. Is it a coincidence that there seems to be an extraordinary number of tattoo parlours here? If you don’t like this scene, then there are many other places to go on this lovely island.

Further up the road in Seminyak, there is a much younger crowd, maybe a little more sophisticated, maybe a bit cooler and maybe with not so saggy tats. I did say tats!

bali beach

They have to pay more up there for accommodation, food and cocktails. For example, we took a walk to the area during our stay and had a coffee in a local café. They charged $4 for the coffee, 50c more for a large, and get this, 50c more for skimmed milk. What a ripoff! Back down the road where we stayed in Legian, the small café Tommy’s charged $2 for a double-shot large cap. We had a juice on another occasion – $5 at the Seminyak’s trendy Sisterfields (the place was packed) but half the price in Legian. Typically, the cost for a traditional Balinese massage in Legian is $8 an hour. In Seminyak it’s about $14.

Talking about massages, in the early days a massage on the beach was the norm. A towel spread on the sand and the lady with a Chinese cone hat kneeling beside you. The wind blows and the sand swirls and mixes with the oil now being rubbed onto your body. Instant body scrub! The $2 is cheap for this sandpaper massage. This is a combination of limbs being caressed and a layer of skin removed. The suntan you’ve been working on for the past few days is gone in one session – ouch!

These days we are a little more up market and go for something more appealing, indoors and on a massage table. The quality is generally proportional to cost. Soothing music, sweet aromatic odours, private room and uniformed professional masseurs in a resort costs the most (about $30 an hour). Whereas at the other end of the spectrum, you could be in a dingy, cigarette-smelling cubicle separated by a curtain from the next bed, with perhaps a hair dryer going full pelt in a nearby area. The masseurs can be very rough and some of their movements may “raise the bar”, so to speak, and lead to an excited state in order to promote value-adding – happy ending anyone? All hearsay of course! I’ve been told that this practice is quite common in Thailand.

In most of the coastal resorts around Bali there are more families and the tourists seem to be more cosmopolitan. These places tend to be less frenetic and more laid back. Away from the hustle and bustle of Legian and Seminyak, go to Sanur or Nusa Dua or revive your spiritual self in Ubud.

bali beach

If you want to experience Bali as it was 20 years ago, then go to Lovina on the northern coastline. Take a slow, three-hour drive over the mountains to this peaceful place, which has a village feel about it and has enough warungs and bars to suffice. Watch the dolphins or take a tour and go snorkelling near Menjangan Island, which is surrounded with coral reefs, on the far west coast of Bali. There are plenty of villa type places to stay and a few resorts. The beach isn’t fantastic – flat and no surf, there is nothing much to do and there is no sunset here, but hey, who cares when you can forget the woes of home and just chill. 

What I’ve noticed over the years is that the traffic is horrendous in peak hour on the narrow roads. Many of the roads have been deemed one way now to alleviate this chaos, but it’s still bad and getting worse. At least the drains are all covered over now and the stench is non-existent.

bali beach

The beaches are now full of brollies and makeshift bars – plastic chairs or bean bags with side tables. Sunsets are the big thing (only on the west side) and it seems that hundreds if not thousands of people gather as the sun dips, sitting at these bars sipping a Bintang. The price for a small beer is $2.50, which is only about 30c more than the local Circle K. The owners of these bars are allocated an area about 20m wide down to the water line. It costs $12,000 a year for a licence. The lounges (about 20 of them) are hired out for $5 a day. The brollies are sponsored at $200 a year from anyone who wants to have their name on the sides. I don’t think they make a fortune doing this, but it provides employment for a number of people.

The beach hawkers have dwindled in number and their approach is different now. Years ago, you would be hounded ad infinitum by these people selling everything from very sandy massages to Viagra to wooden penises to fresh fruit. Now it seems to be less frequent and less frenetic, but still the same stuff for sale. I have a strong suspicion that it’s illegal for these people to sell in this way. Their young kids are usually with them, honing their survival skills at a very early age.

bali beach

What disturbs me somewhat is the high number of young males smoking – local women don’t smoke in public, if at all. Cigarettes are cheap and easily accessible. At one sunset viewing, I saw a group of seven boys sitting on the sand smoking, the youngest of which was about 10.

There are many money changers in Bali, so which one should you choose? The rates, where A$1 is equivalent to IDR10,000 (Rupiah), are usually displayed outside and can change during the day. Stay away from the ones that show a very high rate – usually down an alleyway or tucked in behind a shop. You will be ripped off by sleight of hand. They will generally give you small denominations and you can get very rattled as they pile these notes in front of you. If you try to count it, they will try to confuse you and grab the money to count it themselves – their way of course. Stay away!

Change your money where they give you large denomination notes and spread it out on the counter in front of you – then count it yourself. Use your phone to calculate what you should get before they give it to you. Also, make sure that the rate includes the commission.

So, I reckon Bali still has the attraction it had all those years ago, albeit some changes. Barter hard for the cheap, knock-off clothing or watches at the market places or shops. Generally, they will start at about three or four times what you should pay. In the end, settle on a price that you are happy with. The streets and bars of Kuta and Legian are still as tacky as they were in the past, as is the clientele.

Seminyak has become very trendy and rather expensive, by Balinese standards, with lots of boutique shops, hotels, restaurants and bars. Sanur, Nusa Dua and Ubud are still fairly laid back and are less likely to attract the “ugly Aussie”. Try out of-the-way spots like Lovina (near Singaraja on the northern beaches) for a different experience. Canggu, about 30 minutes north of Seminyak, is another laid back place and is becoming very popular. It has been described lately as being like a "Bondi to Byron" place. It has traditionally been a Mecca for surfers.

bali beach

There are many resorts all over Bali that have package deals, which are great for families. Have a look at package deals from Luxury Escapes, Groupon, Scoopon, Hoot, and Trip a Deal, to name a few. Book early and get good discounted air fares with Jetstar for a direct flight of fewer than six hours from Melbourne. Try to avoid the red-eye flight on your return and instead get the afternoon flight back, which arrives late evening in Melbourne.

All up, Bali is a great place for a winter’s get-away at a reasonable cost. I reckon it’s still one of our best and most popular tourist destinations, and now that the circus has left town, it's even better.

*Schapelle Corby

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    COMMENTS

    To make a comment, please register or login
    Kathleen
    23rd Sep 2017
    9:56am
    No thanks, never going there! How about promoting Australia more? So many gems within our own country and most Aussies have seen only a portion of them.
    Not going to open a can of worms but I have moral reasons for avoiding Indonesia and it is not their religion!
    Anonymous
    23rd Sep 2017
    9:15pm
    Agree, it's off the list, after they murdered 2 Australians by firing squad after making them serve long sentences and getting them reformed.

    Also, a statistic showed the quality of the place / maybe visitors there too - one Australian is killed every 9 days there as per report below:
    http://www.news.com.au/travel/travel-updates/favourite-holiday-destination-bali-claims-australian-life-every-nine-days/news-story/793a1e7a65ee3465bf1883dfbef6e951

    Australian destinations any time!
    MB100D
    25th Sep 2017
    9:04am
    Been there once, that's about my limit.
    Great place for Aussie Bogans, at least it gets them out of Australia for a while.
    Pamiea
    23rd Sep 2017
    11:34am
    Love Bali. Been 12 times. Cheap economical holiday. To travel in Australia is so much more expensive but I do love Ozzie and have been to every State and Territory and will continue to do so.
    Eddy
    23rd Sep 2017
    12:44pm
    Been to Bali, pleasant enough but not so that I hanker a return visit. My most notable impression of Bali was the number of Aussies overindulging in alcohol and acting obnoxiously, not an uplifting sight. Once on a cruise ship we stopped at Lombok and saw the real Indonesia, grinding poverty, uncleanliness and indifference to animal welfare. I much prefer NZ to Bali. But then I am not a 'budget' traveller.
    Ever noticed how the meaningless terms 'budget' and 'affordable' are used nowadays. What is inexpensive or 'affordable' to one person is much too expensive or 'unaffordable' for another to even consider.
    Ella
    23rd Sep 2017
    7:49pm
    Bali equels bogan to me and this is not always a pretty experience. Way too commercial also. NZ is indeed beautiful particularly outside Auckland and also Tasmania. Neither were too expensive using a motorhome. I would rather have one or two quality holidays than many cheap crass ones . Probably why i avoid cruises
    Eddy
    24th Sep 2017
    12:09am
    I can assure you Ella that cruises are top quality and never crass. If you don't mind an inside cabin you can get a cruise for about $100 per day per person so it is not too expensive in comparison to a motor home. Cruising is not to everyone's taste so be happy doing your own thing.
    Ronin
    24th Sep 2017
    1:05pm
    Love Bali. But always base myself in Ubud. Avoid the Kuta, Legian, Seminyak strip like the plague. The worst of Bali - ugly fat or drunk Aussies, unfriendly Javanese and traffic chaos!

    Don't blame the Hindu Balinese for the actions of the Muslim Indonesian government. I find the Balinese smiling, happy, polite and deferential, but never mistake that for weakness, read their history.
    veepee
    21st Sep 2019
    9:46am
    After going to East Timor and Bali in 1974 and riding a motorbike around the south and up into the mountains and villages, all extremely beautiful then, we boycotted Indonesia following the incredibly violent annexation of East Timor until after E Timor regained independence. Most Australians seemed not to care about East Timor or even about our journalists who were killed there and flocked to Bali - doesn't say much for their priorities. Returned in 2001 and was horrified by the overdevelopment of beautiful and religious sites such as around Tanah Lot and the whole south of the Island.Even our 17 year old daughter was mortified. Since then there has been more over development thanks to corrupt politicians -documented accounts of farmers land taken by force etc and once beautiful and unique villages turned into massive tourist traps - Ubud being a prime example. Most profits from resorts go overseas, Balinese are paid poorly and are mostly far worse off than they were when they lived in lovely and well structured villages and owned their land - in fact many are now mired in debt. Whereas we respected culture and religion, many Australians now don't - their dress and behaviour is incredibly offensive to the local Hindu religion. Yet these people would no doubt complain if they were treated disrespectfully by the locals. Balinese are the most beautiful of people and rampant tourism, in particular Australian tourists, have ruined much of the culture and the environment.
    Aussie
    16th May 2020
    3:15pm
    Forget about Bali Come to Thailand it is a lot cheaper and much better service .... no many are kill here and we have only 1 or 2 infection x day .... yes I am lock up here in paradise he he he he maybe lucky for me at this time here almost everything is open and super cheap ..... I know I will receive a lot of shit for this comments he he he he lets have fun
    Aussie
    16th May 2020
    3:19pm
    Wowowowo one place in Thailand for you he he he he

    https://www.yourlifechoices.com.au/travel/destinations/chilling-out-in-khao-lak


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