Kaye makes her way to Trinity Bay, home of The Shipping News film locations, a naughty town named Dildo, and more of that local hospitality for which the region is famous.
Sitting still in Trinity
It’s a relatively short drive from Bonavista to Trinity Bay. The bay itself is huge, with many ‘outports’ (tiny port towns) including Trinity East, Trinity Bay North, Trouty and Old Bonaventure where Annie Proulx’s novel The Shipping News was filmed in 2001.
It also has the town of Dildo where they sell naughtily named candies including Peppermint Nobs and Climax mixture. Go figure.
When Kevin Spacey and Julianne Moore were filming The Shipping News they were both booked into the Artisan Inn for the time that it took to shoot the movie in the nearby town.
Apparently, Kevin then decided he needed five bodyguards (go figure again), so he moved to other, larger premises where his buddies could be accommodated. But the gorgeous Julianne stayed on at Artisan Inn and it is in its restaurant, the Twine Loft, where we dine.
What great hospitality founder and owner, Tineke, and her manager and sommelier daughter, Marieke, offer. First up we are shown upstairs to the loft where they ply us with fine local wines while we gaze out over the bay as the sun sets. If ever I have that long-delayed nervous breakdown, just ship me back over here, on the deck, in a massive coloured Adirondack chair to sit and think. Or better still, just sit.
Tineke opened the establishment as Campbell Inn back in 1992 and has added a few extra buildings along the way to create a wonderful retreat with stylish décor and very fine dining. Despite the terrific culinary experience, the set meal in the Twine Loft is far from expensive and the service is very friendly – as in Bonavista, there’s no room for pretention in Trinity.
How did we reach Trinity?
The drive from Bonavista to Trinity on Highway 230 takes less than an hour, but there are many fabulous turnoffs on the way. One we missed but would like to return to is the Port Rexton Brewery and Tap Room which is run by two local ladies, Sonja and Alicia. With beers named ‘Baycation Blonde’ and ‘Sweater Weather’ we just know this has to be a fun place to imbibe the local drop.
The Artisan Inn and Twine Loft offer Newfoundland hospitality at its best. So do not think you can casually stroll in and stay or dine – you will need to book weeks if not months ahead, with July & August particularly busy months. And a one-night stay is simply not enough. There is a lot to do and see in Trinity so make sure you book for two-nights minimum.
Circle Newfoundland & Labrador
The best of “the Far East of the Western World”. Learn of ancient peoples – the Maritime Archaic, Vikings, and Basques – as you travel to coastal fishing communities to meet the friendly locals. See whales, seabirds, and, depending on the time of the year, icebergs!