22nd Mar 2019
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Max and Jenny sail the sounds of New Zealand
Author: Max Williams
Max and Jenny sail the sounds of New Zealand

It’s February and we’ve just completed another cruise. This time it’s across ‘the ditch’ and into New Zealand. With a group of friends, we flew to Auckland from Melbourne and picked up a 10-seater minivan for a seven-day land tour of the North Island, followed by two nights in Auckland. There was excitement about the next phase of our holiday: a 10-night cruise on The Royal Caribbean’s Radiance of the Seas, island hopping to six ports along New Zealand’s east coast and back home to Melbourne.

For me, the highlight of the cruise was the day we spent cruising some of New Zealand’s sounds and inlets. These are located along a 200km stretch of the rugged south west coast of the South Island. The 1.2 million hectares of National Park is known as Fiordland and was declared a World Heritage Area in 1986.

new zealand sounds

A sound is described by Wikipedia as a large sea or ocean inlet, deeper and wider than a fiord, which is a narrow sea or ocean channel between two bodies of land. So why did the Kiwis call the area Fiordland and not Soundland? My guess is because they could. There are 15 sounds in Fiordland and we visited five of them, the most famous being Milford Sound.

The massive rock formations were created over 500 million years ago when intense heat and pressure deep within the earth’s crust thrust the gneiss, schist and granite rocks upwards. Fast forward to two million years ago when glacial activity commenced and gouged out U-shaped  valleys to form the existing lakes and fiords.

Captain Cook and his crew were the first Europeans to visit Fiordland and in 1773 spent five weeks there. Soon after, the first European settlements were formed. There are several walking tracks in the area, including Routeburn, Kepler and the world-famous Milford Track, which opened in 1889.

Rain has been pelting down overnight, brought about by the Roaring 40s moist westerly winds that sweep into this region and are diverted upwards because of the steep and high mountains. The  resultant cold air condenses as rain and snow at an average of 200 rain days a year. This area can get up to nine metres of rain a year. Milford Sound is not only known as the wettest inhabited spot in New Zealand, but also one of the wettest places in the world.

new zealand sounds

It has stopped raining, but it is partly overcast as we enter our first sound mid-morning – Dusky Sound, with its many small islands throughout. A little north is Doubtful Sound, with no direct road access. Its isolation makes this a special place and it is sometimes referred to as the ‘Sound of silence’.

We have struck it lucky today, because later the sun is bright and the temperature is in the low 20s for our venture into Milford Sound, at the northern end of Fiordland. Absolutely perfect! It’s easy to see why this sound attracts up to one million visitors a year. I’m up at the pointy end of deck 12 and looking out onto this amazing scene.

There are many waterfalls cascading down the mountains because of the overnight rain. I estimate some of these waterfalls to be up to 1000 metres in length. The sheer rock mountains project up to 1700 metres vertically out of the water. Most are covered with dense forest foliage, which clings together by an intertwined root system. The water depth is over 400 metres.

The clear blue sea salt water is obscured by a one metre deep fresh water run-off layer, which is stained a murky brown from the tannins in the vegetation. The difference between the clear emerald sea and the murkier fresh water layer is evident when watching the ship’s propellers churn through.

An expert has been brought on board to tell us all about this area. Hamish’s fabulous narration throughout the day is informative and humorous.

"It’s hard to get a perspective of the size of things here," he says. "That permanent waterfall (Stirling Falls) you see on the port side is the height of a 50-story building."

What, no way! I look above it to the peak of Elephant Mountain, which I estimate is at least 10 times higher.

Hamish’s analogy really does make it clear how big these rock formations are. He also jokingly refers to the swarms of midges in the area.

new zealand waterfalls

"I hope the ship doesn’t stop, because the midges following us will catch up and eat you alive. It’s best to be at the front of the ship," he jests. "Because those at the back will be taken first."

It so happens that some of those little beasts must have hopped onboard, because I was set upon (I did go to the back of the ship). Painful itchy bites – ouch! Apparently, it’s only the female that bites – requiring a dose of protein blood to produce her eggs. I’m not happy that my blood will be used to create a family of more blood sucking female midges. A week later and I’m still scratching!

The ship slows for us to take in this magical scene and does ‘a 360’. From the bow I am looking vertically upwards at the towering 1700-metre Mitre Peak, which Hamish casually mentions he has climbed a couple of times. No way, Jose! I try to visualise a route up this rugged rock face, and my heart rate increases as I internally freak out.

new zealand sounds

The ship has stopped (all aboard, midges!) and I realise that its aft is facing the waterfall. So, it’s a quick about face to the other end of the ship. Wow! We are a short distance from the falls. People are squeezed together along the railing and their cameras are getting a real workout. I have a vision of their relatives at home wincing at the subsequent slideshow invitation.

We continue to the head of the sound, where the famous Milford Track starts. There’s lots of  activity here because with perfect weather and visual flying only, the window of opportunity is open for flights, as well as many small tour boats. The small air strip is buzzing with activity – small fixed wing planes and helicopters taking off every couple of minutes, or so it seems. I watch one heading into a rock face – when will it turn? Turn now, turn now! But the plane continues for what seems an eternity, and when I think it should have crashed by now, it finally turns across the face of the mountain. Such is the deceptive nature of the scale of things here.

It’s picture perfect near the end of this sound. Imagine a waterfall (the permanent Lady Bowen Falls) to the left, mountains all around and in the distance, a glacier. Stunning! It’s said a picture paints a thousand words. Well, part way I reckon, because a photo could never capture the sheer scale and beauty of this place.

new zealand waterfall

It’s late afternoon as we head back and out of Milford Sound to the Tasman Sea. It takes two sea days to get back to Melbourne across the occasionally rocky ditch – the bags are out, folks! There is plenty of time to contemplate our experiences over the past three weeks. For me, a standout highlight was cruising the sounds, in particular, Milford. I want to go back!

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    COMMENTS

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    Arisaid
    23rd Mar 2019
    8:33am
    I want to see the fiords and sounds but in a much smaller vessel thank you. Can anyone recommend a smaller vessel I can go on please. (Probably one similar to the one in the photo.)
    heyyybob
    26th Mar 2019
    12:09pm
    Hi. My wife and I 'tramped' (bushwalked), mostly in Fiordland, for over 25 years sometimes twice a year holidays from OZ. Lurrrrrved it. We recommend, if you can manage it, to do the overnight trip on Doubtful Sound. Small boat, you join the people who operate the vessel in Manapouri, (you can o/n there or in TeAnau) travel across Lake Manapouri in small boat, into vehicle and up and over a pass down into the top end of Doubtful sound where their vessel is located and do an o/n trip down the Sound to the sea and back again next morning. Enjoy the crayfish dinner and a nice fish dinner also. They take, from memory, up to 6-8 pax. Family run and know what they are doing. Best cruise we have had in the Sounds area. We have tramped Milford track of course and George Sound 'tramp' amongst lots of others ...... GREAT memories of a wonderful part of the world. "You'll never, never know unless you give it a go" :)
    heyyybob
    26th Mar 2019
    12:17pm
    p.s. meant to mention (wish I could put the photo up) that my wife was able to stand wearing her Goretex parka, at the bow end and hold a teapot up to fill it with fresh water from the waterfall we nudged right up to, in one part of Doubtful Sound trip :D Doubtful is a quieter experience with much less 'tourist' boats around. Usually only yours , maybe one or two fishing boats moving and some camping/yakking kayakers enjoying themselves. Go for it.
    MICK
    23rd Mar 2019
    9:45am
    You forgot to mention that the water is so deep that cruise ships can only come in for the day because they are unable to anchor. Quite amazing.
    I suggest a land tour is a much better option Max as you can also do rain forest walks as well as see the Fox glacier. You would have loved some of the walks. Apart from being extremely beautiful there's not a sounds of a bird or any other critter. A weird feeling and one to experience.
    Good on you for seeing NZ but take a land tour mate. You'll be glad you did.
    MADMAX
    23rd Mar 2019
    12:11pm
    Thanks for the tips Mick. We do intend to return to the South Island & hire a van for a land tour. From what I've read, & from what you've said, the walks would definitely be on our list of things to do. You are right about cruise ship anchorage - bit hard to anchor in 400 m depth!
    Arisaid has mentioned that his choice would be a smaller craft. I think this would be an awesome way to see the sounds. They get up close & personal to the waterfalls. There were many of them during our visit.
    Yer man
    23rd Mar 2019
    10:27am
    Been there three times and was awe struck each time. The last time we had the LONG WHITE cloud just to add to the scenery . As one fellow passenger remarked,"
    "One country doesn't deserve to have all of this !"
    Put it on your bucket list . You won't be sorry.
    Grumpy
    23rd Mar 2019
    2:10pm
    Arisaid, I would recommend you go with Southern Discoveries, and if you're an early bird, take the 9am cruise which includes a full cooked breakfast. The food was great and you can eat as much or as little as you like. If you're staying in Te Anau you will need to leave at 6am to get to Milford for an 8am check in, all of this can of course be booked online. You may have guessed, I'm a Kiwi living in Oz.
    Arisaid
    23rd Mar 2019
    5:20pm
    Me too
    heyyybob
    26th Mar 2019
    12:25pm
    Hi. See my comments above ref Doubtful guys. Loved it. I'm an Aussie who fell in love with Fiordland, in 1962, when I first went to K1W1 land and worked at Hokitika airport for a while. The road finished at Fox (they were still building/finishing the Fox/Haast section. But it gave me the introduction to a fantastic part of the world ..... and its only 4 hours away from OZ !! Trampers Curse (knees etc) have taken its toll but we have our great memories of Fiordland.
    Draganotz
    23rd Mar 2019
    3:33pm
    We first went to Milford sound on Voyager of the Seas and we were unexpectedly surprised that the captain had manoeuvred the bow of his huge ship right up close toward the waterfall. It was so spectacular there was no room left on the bow for late comers. I swore if I ever returned I would be ready ahead of time! As it turned out we returned in January 2019 and we were ready for this experience...but unfortunately the Radiance captain had other ideas so it wasn't to be! Regardless, Milford sound is awe inspiring and unforgettable. And yes, as we had an aft cabin 1100, the midges were terrible little beasts!
    ardnher
    24th Mar 2019
    12:32pm
    lived in Picton for 2 years in the late 60's...beautiful little town where the ferry docks when it arrives over from Wellington. Worth spending a few days here and go on the mail boat run down the Sounds...you will love it.


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