Hakone and Mount Fuji
The bullet train from Tokyo is spellbinding, zipping along smoothly at 300kmh. What an amazing ride!
In no time we’re 90km down the track, then onto a bus to Hakone and settled into our hotel on the shore of Lake Ashi overlooking a cloud-covered Mount Fuji. I experience my first onsen (an indoor or outdoor Japanese bath with water from a geothermal source), which are everywhere in Japan. Follow the procedure (pre-scrubbing) for this nude experience. Men and women are normally segregated. Some outside onsens are mixed (bathers on).
A short bus ride away is the 400 metre-long Mishima Skywalk and adventure park with spectacular views of Mount Fuji (when the clouds clear!). On our final morning we open the curtains and bingo! It’s sunny, and over the lake in the distance is the snow-capped Mount Fuji. Absolutely beautiful!
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A traditional ryokan
Later in the day, after another bullet train to Nagoya and a rapid train to Takayama, 400km north, we are at our ryokan for two nights to experience a traditional Japanese Inn. We don a yukata, and feast on a vast collection of vegetable-based dishes, miso soup, tempura, wagyu beef, salmon, sushi, rice, and some sake to wash it down. The bedroom is simple – a tatami floor (no shoes, please!) and futon bed. Although we love Japanese food, the pickled vegetables, eggs, salmon, and rice for breakfast doesn’t turn us on. Just bring us some corn flakes and some vegemite toast, please!
The heritage Edo period (1603–1869) old tourist town of Takayama is fabulous. Some buildings have been converted into boutique, craft, food, and sake distillery shops. An early morning walk in the mist at the nearby maple and ginkgo forest is magic (autumn at its best!).
Japanese trains
The rail system in Japan is complicated but efficient, comprising of long-distance Shinkansen or bullet trains (the buzz of a bullet train passing through a station at top speed is awesome), the JR (Japanese Rail) for shorter commutes, and private rail. All trains run to precise timetables, and all bookings will give you the exact spot to stand on the platform. The train door opens precisely at that location.
A warning, be quick to hop on. At one station, Jenny boarded the train while the rest of us dragged our feet. The doors closed, and we stood there like shags on a rock as the train disappeared.We got the next train to find her sitting, sad and alone, at our destination station – until she sees us then it’s smiles all around.
We opt for the Green Car (first class and well worth the extra cost) for greater comfort. The platform officials with their white gloves point to the direction of travel, the route signage, and the clock. Each looks at his/her watch and presses a button at the exact time for departure. Off it goes! It’s amazing, and comical, just to watch these officials do their stuff. This operatic choreography would always make us smile and set the tone for the day.
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Top-rated Japanese gardens
A bullet train takes us to Kanazawa further north. We get to see Edo-era buildings, the Kanazawa Castle Park, the Oyamamachi Shrine, the Nagamachi area with historic samurai buildings and the famous Kenrokuen Garden, a highlight of this tour so far and classified as one of Japan’s three most beautiful, landscaped gardens.
Korakuen Garden is another of the top three, at Okayama, a 3.5-hour train ride south-west from Kanazawa. We visit Okayama Castle on the Nishi River – a top attraction. A 15-minute train ride south to Kurashika reveals a historic Edo period town with canals preserved in the Bikan Historical Quarter. Wander around this beautiful village with its tree-lined canals, stone bridges, and white walled houses.
Food in Japan
Hiroshima’s unique signature dish is the okonomiyaki, a tasty savoury egg pancake filled with vegetables, meat, and noodles. We head to Okonomimura, downtown in a multistorey building, and sit around a large stainless-steel hotplate, sipping an ice-cold draft Asahi beer and watching the artistic chef entertain us (a great experience).
Ramen (noodle soup) would have to be the most popular food choice in Japan. Other dishes include tempura, sushi, sashimi, miso soup, tofu, pickled vegetables, and my favourite, gyozas. Common in marketplaces (Ameyoko Ueno market recommended) is the Japan’s specialty of very large fresh oysters served in many ways. Wash them down with a shot of sake for an extra hit.
Most department stores have a second-floor food court. The Japanese food is good and cheap. At about 5pm, the price for packaged food is substantially reduced, which is ideal for peak-hour commuters to grab a cheap meal on the way home. Don’t forget the ubiquitous conveyor belt restaurants (kaitenzushi), like our sushi trains.
The locals flock to this place
The island of Miyajima (free ferry with our JR pass), close to Hiroshima, is where we join thousands of Japanese on a Sunday. The main attractions are the centuries-old iconic torii gate (unfortunately, wrapped up for a three-year renovation) and the ropeway, a cable car to the 500-metre summit of MountMisen, with fabulous views from the top ($25 return). I walk back down the steep winding track through spectacular deer-inhabited forested areas.
Kyoto
We arrive in Kyoto, on a bullet train from Hiroshima. It was once the capital of Japan, with its magnificent rail station – a massive multilevel complex. Wow, now that’s a station! Its skywalk and observation deck provide great views. Other places of interest are Nishki Market – a long touristy alleyway full of food and stalls; Nijo Castle – built 400 years ago for the first shogun of the Edo period; the Golden Pavilion – a much-visited Zen Buddhist temple and nice to stroll around its gardens. Its top storeys are covered in gold leaf; the Imperial Palace – former residence of the emperor of Japan.
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The winding narrow street up to Kiyomizu-Dera Temple is full of cafes, boutique shops, kimono hire shops, craft, and food shops. Check out the views, the temple, and the kimono-clad locals, who stroll around wanting to be noticed. They love to pose for photos. A worthwhile visit is to Arashiyama, to see temples, Japanese gardens, the 400-year-old Togetsukyo Bridge and the famous bamboo grove.
A must-see site is Senbon Torii (Shinto Shrine with 1000 torii gates). Be prepared to share this experience with many other tourists. Memoirs of a Geisha was filmed here. What a buzz just wandering up the hill through these magnificent orange-coloured gates.
Geisha Girls
Geishas are entertainers skilled in the arts. They wear colourful traditional clothing, white face make-up, and provide nonsexual services to clients for a fee. We visit the Gion district of Kyoto in the hope of a geisha glimpse. They are rarely seen in public, but you might be lucky to see one hopping in or out of a taxi (like we did). In this area there are ‘no photos’ signs everywhere and penalties apply (about $150) if you are caught.
Nara
We are in Nara, a 45-minute JR train trip from Kyoto. The main attraction here is theimpressive 8th century Todaiji Temple. It houses a 15-metre bronze statue of Buddha. Wander around the adjacent gardens with the local deer and flash your international ID to get free entry to nearby Yoshikien Garden, one of the most beautiful smaller gardens we see on tour.
All good things must end
We reflect on this epic trip. There is no doubt that it was full-on and sometimes exhausting. In our 21 days, we got an overview of the country, but there is so much more to see. Next time! The appeal in November is surely the spectacular autumn forests. We loved the place and would certainly recommend booking an autumn tour.
Arigato gozaimasu and sayonara!
Have you visited Japan? Where is your favourite spot? Why not share your thoughts in the comments section below?
