For reasons that escape me, Eastern Arnhem Land is so far off the tourist trail that many tourist maps don’t even show the road. Sure, it takes two days to drive from Katherine to Nhulunbuy on the Gove Peninsula, on a dirt road that has some pretty wicked corrugations. And which you do need to organise a few permits before you go, but they are really easy to get online.
Admittedly, no caravans are allowed on the Central Arnhem Road either, so it is off limits to most grey nomads, but off-road camper trailers are OK. Still, all this doesn’t really explain why more people haven’t discovered the fabulous beachfront camping, the exquisite white sand beaches – which are lapped by gin-clear water positively teeming with big fish (and a few saltwater crocodiles) – and the extraordinary Yolngu Art Centre at Yirrkala.